Date: 2006-08-17 01:52 am (UTC)
my worst day was actually a bodysurfing experience. i was at a place called north friars beach (in the caribbean) and we'd been fighting riptides all afternoon, but still getting a few good rides in. both of us were actually bleeding as the waves charged into the beach with so much power that it was the sand that finally stopped us, but it was SO much fun. i caught one wave that dropped me so fast that i got pushed down and underneath it, but fortunately was able to tuck and roll before i got hurt. my friend, on the other hand, caught the same wave, got dumped as well, but wasn't so lucky and got plowed head-first into the sand. not such a big deal, except his head stopped and his arms kept going and he ended up ripping a tendon in his shoulder. kinda put an end to the fun, and he'd never bodysurf there again.


all this talk makes me long to buy a board again. i kinda suck a short boarding, but give me something thats at least 7 feet long and i'm set. the coolest place i ever surfed was in jefferys bay in south africa......a surf mecca. it was amazing......and winter (burrrrr)!
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