Date: 2006-08-17 01:28 am (UTC)
Wow! That's so cool! I've surfed since I was a kid! Short board and long board. I learned on the Jersey Shore (Island Beach State Park, to be exact). The waves were only stoking after a good storm (or even better, a hurricane), but it was a great place to learn! Well, if you don't mind the fecal coliform bacteria and the occasional used needle washing up on the beach!

I use three different skill sets depending if I'm using a surfboard, a bodyboard (boogieboard) or body surfing (or hell, even one of those blue rafts with the yellow rubber caps that always seem to deflate at the wrong time!), but maybe that's because I'm a goofyfooter.
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